Thursday, July 2 looked pretty good, not great, for the start of our continued Down East Loop trip. We dropped the lines at 7:00, got the boat pumped out, said our goodbyes the the great marina staff in Rimouski, and at about 7:45 headed out through the breakwater. Weather was drizzling, wind about 10 Kts from the NE, waves 2-3' on our nose. At 10:30, wind had increased to 15 Kts, waves were now 3-4' and things were starting to get unc
omfortable. We made our decision to call it a short day and go into Mantane. Another looper was about an hour ahead of us, running a little slower, had also decided to go into Mantane. As we got to Mantane the wind lightened up and the waves were back down to about 3', so we changed our plans again and decided to go for Sainte-Anne-des-Monts, our original planned destination. It was a lumpy ride, cold, but dueable.
On Friday morning the wind was calm, it was foggy, and the swell was
2-3'. Out on the river we were getting a nice push from the current of 2 to 2.5 MPH, so at our slow cruise speed we were making about 12 MPH over ground. We're off for Riviere-au-Renard, some 104 miles down river. The river at this point is a large body of water, 30 miles wide and 900' deep. We are running in and out of fog, even being able to see the shore 1.5 to 2 miles to the SE on occasion. Shortly after 1:00 pm, and having past Grande Valley, with a very small harbor of refuge, we entered another fog bank, but this one was different. The wind built to an estimated 25 Kts. from the east, the waves built to 6-7', and it got real uncomfortable. We stepped up the speed of the boat to about 15 MPH through the water, and things became more comfortable. The waves kept getting worse, now 8-10' with visibility in the fog of 1/8 mile or so. We slammed through a couple of big waves, one popping the right forward window on the bridge out of the frame, slamming it against the VHF antenna, cracking it. The window is anti-shatter glass so it didn't fail completely. We slowed the boat to about 12 MPH to get the bow as high as possible, slid the rear window forward, and stuffed a foam beer can holder between the broken front window and the rear side window, wedging the cracked window against the antenna. We managed to keep the tops of the waves below the bow pulpit, but most of the wave ended up on the cabin top and windshield. We were real glad to be under a hardtop and behind a windshield. The electronics kept us on track and aware of other boats around us. We pulled into the marina at Riviere-au-Renard at 4:10 PM, relieved to be behind a nice breakwater.
Today, Saturday July 4, we were back on the river at 5:30 AM, no wind, lumpy swell of 3-4', thick fog. We rounded the end of the Gaspe Peninsula at 7:30 AM, unable to see the high cliffs of the end of the Appalachian Mountains as they drop into the sea, a sight that we so much wanted to see from the water. As we turned to the 
west, the sea became trailing, the fog lifted for a minute, the sun came out, and we cruised comfortably into the marina at Gaspe at 10:00 AM.
The weather on Sunday was rainy, with fog out in the bay. Monday was better with a prediction of a nice day on T
uesday. By 3:00 the weather was clearing, so we decided to rent a car for a day, and go see the Gaspe Peninsula and Forillon National Park on Tuesday morning. As long as we had the car, we drove to the south to Perce and back. We could see the famous Perce Rock from the shore. Tuesday morning we did drive over to Forillon Park, first viewing the north side of the Peninsula and then whent to the south side, where we walked the last 4 KM of the International Appalachian Trail to the end. 
2-3'. Out on the river we were getting a nice push from the current of 2 to 2.5 MPH, so at our slow cruise speed we were making about 12 MPH over ground. We're off for Riviere-au-Renard, some 104 miles down river. The river at this point is a large body of water, 30 miles wide and 900' deep. We are running in and out of fog, even being able to see the shore 1.5 to 2 miles to the SE on occasion. Shortly after 1:00 pm, and having past Grande Valley, with a very small harbor of refuge, we entered another fog bank, but this one was different. The wind built to an estimated 25 Kts. from the east, the waves built to 6-7', and it got real uncomfortable. We stepped up the speed of the boat to about 15 MPH through the water, and things became more comfortable. The waves kept getting worse, now 8-10' with visibility in the fog of 1/8 mile or so. We slammed through a couple of big waves, one popping the right forward window on the bridge out of the frame, slamming it against the VHF antenna, cracking it. The window is anti-shatter glass so it didn't fail completely. We slowed the boat to about 12 MPH to get the bow as high as possible, slid the rear window forward, and stuffed a foam beer can holder between the broken front window and the rear side window, wedging the cracked window against the antenna. We managed to keep the tops of the waves below the bow pulpit, but most of the wave ended up on the cabin top and windshield. We were real glad to be under a hardtop and behind a windshield. The electronics kept us on track and aware of other boats around us. We pulled into the marina at Riviere-au-Renard at 4:10 PM, relieved to be behind a nice breakwater.
Today, Saturday July 4, we were back on the river at 5:30 AM, no wind, lumpy swell of 3-4', thick fog. We rounded the end of the Gaspe Peninsula at 7:30 AM, unable to see the high cliffs of the end of the Appalachian Mountains as they drop into the sea, a sight that we so much wanted to see from the water. As we turned to the 
west, the sea became trailing, the fog lifted for a minute, the sun came out, and we cruised comfortably into the marina at Gaspe at 10:00 AM.
The weather on Sunday was rainy, with fog out in the bay. Monday was better with a prediction of a nice day on T
uesday. By 3:00 the weather was clearing, so we decided to rent a car for a day, and go see the Gaspe Peninsula and Forillon National Park on Tuesday morning. As long as we had the car, we drove to the south to Perce and back. We could see the famous Perce Rock from the shore. Tuesday morning we did drive over to Forillon Park, first viewing the north side of the Peninsula and then whent to the south side, where we walked the last 4 KM of the International Appalachian Trail to the end. 
By 2:00 we were back in Gaspe, turned in the car, and headed out with the boat around Perce Rock and in
side of Bonaventure Island, to L'Anse-a-Beaufils for the night. What an interesting experience in this little harbor of refuge. Next to the marina is a restraunt where all the locals hang out, the food was simple but superb, and the sing along music started at about 9:30 and went until about 2:00 AM. Everything was Acadian French so we didn't stay up for the music. 
On Wednesday we got an early start for our planned trip to Shippagan. Little to no wind out on the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Saw many Ganne
ts, a hump back whale, and some White sided Dolphins. Shippigan is onother fishing village of French Acadian ancestery. They have made a real attempt to make their village a tourist attraction, with an aquarium and board walk newly added to the waterfront.
From Shi
ppigan we went up the Miramichi River to Miramichi. This was a good location to backtrack for the truck. Miramichi has become a summer retirement area for many Canadians and they have activities every day and night in their waterfront park, Ritchie Warf. We had heard from our
friends on EARLY OUT how friendly the town was, and from our location tied up at Ritchie Warf, we became one of the attractions of the town, with everybody stopping to talk. In our openion, it became too friendly, and much as we enjoyed the evening entertainment in the park, it was ti
me to move on.
With the combination of an out going tide and the normal flow of the river. we got a 3 MPH push as we left Miramichi. We had planned to go to Buctouche, but when the wind came up and the waves reached 6', we altered course and went to Richibucto, another unplanned interesting stop. 
When we got their on Saturday afternoon they were in the middle of their Scallop Festival, so we were entertained with a boat parade on Saturday night and fireworks on Sunday night. When we tied up to the warf, we were in front of small local boat. While watching the boat parade we met them, and on Sunday morning they picked us up while we were walking down the main street, and gave us a tour of their little town. Sunday night they joined us on the front seat on the bow of our boat for the fire works. Alyre and Jeanne winter in Daytona Beach, FL, so we expect to see them again as they come down I95 this fall.
Wednesday morning we left for a 57 mile ride to Charlottetown.
Along the way we passed under the 9 mile long Confederation Bridge, completed in 1997. At the center span it has a clearance of 197 feet. Each span appears to be about 500'. We arrived at 4:00 PM, and we
re docked three boats from VOYAGER II, our looper friends who we hadn't seen since Rimouski. After dinner with Les and Judy, the four of us went to the musical play, "Anne of Green Gables".
When we got their on Saturday afternoon they were in the middle of their Scallop Festival, so we were entertained with a boat parade on Saturday night and fireworks on Sunday night. When we tied up to the warf, we were in front of small local boat. While watching the boat parade we met them, and on Sunday morning they picked us up while we were walking down the main street, and gave us a tour of their little town. Sunday night they joined us on the front seat on the bow of our boat for the fire works. Alyre and Jeanne winter in Daytona Beach, FL, so we expect to see them again as they come down I95 this fall.
On Monday morning early, we ran accross Northumberland Straight to Summerside, PEI. We were meeting up again with Joe and Mary Beth Amelia, Loopers who stopped at our dock as they came n
orth last spring. They wanted to give us a personal tour of the sights on PEI and treat us to a home cooked lobster dinner. So on Tuesday morning, Mary Beth met us a Summerside and we were off. Anne of Gre
en Gables was at the top of Claria's list, so we started there, now run by Parks Canada. Then to the beaches on the north shore of PEI. Then to lunch with a bagpiper and drummer! More sight seeing, then a dinner of f
resh mussels, lobster, and boiled PEI potatoes, oh my was that good! We finnished the day at the College of Piping and their
Celtic Storm show of Scottish music 
and step dancing, WOW, were those kids GREAT!
orth last spring. They wanted to give us a personal tour of the sights on PEI and treat us to a home cooked lobster dinner. So on Tuesday morning, Mary Beth met us a Summerside and we were off. Anne of Gre
en Gables was at the top of Claria's list, so we started there, now run by Parks Canada. Then to the beaches on the north shore of PEI. Then to lunch with a bagpiper and drummer! More sight seeing, then a dinner of f
resh mussels, lobster, and boiled PEI potatoes, oh my was that good! We finnished the day at the College of Piping and their
Celtic Storm show of Scottish music and step dancing, WOW, were those kids GREAT!
re docked three boats from VOYAGER II, our looper friends who we hadn't seen since Rimouski. After dinner with Les and Judy, the four of us went to the musical play, "Anne of Green Gables".
We're sitting in Pictou, NS on Saturday, July 18. Our data service using our cell phone as a modum is back so I will be adding a bunch of stuff in the next few days.
3 comments:
Hi Claria & Chuck,
It sounds as though you have had a couple of interesting days in the northern waters. It is a different thing to be on open waters, but it definitely has its charm. Finding your way into a snug harbor (harbour where you are) after hours in the fog provides a great sense of voyage. Stay safe and keep up the great blog. Leigh
Where are you bound from Gaspe? Will you go to PEI and then around the Eastern end of the Cape Briton peninsula to Bras d'Or? Hope you have great weather! That looks like a beautiful area (when not frozen). Leigh
Hi Chuck & Claria -
Congratulations on your "re"-departure after that long, 12-month, delay.
Unfortunately fog and cold are a too-common occurrence this time of the year in that part of the planet, but hang in there -- things will get better quickly. As we can personally attest, late July and August are fantastic in the Maritimes. You'll love the cruising there (IMHO much preferred to New England).
Be aware, however, that you might well be tempted to leave Odyssee there for yet another season of Maritimes cruising :-)
Do enjoy! ... and Don't overindulge too much on those wonderful PEI lobsters while cruising the Northumberland Strait.
Bill & Judy - s/v Jubilee
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